Sure the days are short and morning’s cold.
But the Exhilaration!
Stripping off warm layers…
To enter a wet, clammy wetsuit…
in freezing offshore wind…
Big, purple blobs flood NPAC models.
The Harvest Buoy spikes…its coming.
Butterfly stomach excitement.
Impending glory rides…
The North Pacific Ocean.
The Polar Jet Stream.
Massive, spinning tempests.
Spraying swell from-
Hawaii to Alaska to California.
Entire weeks of head-high+ surf.
Consistent, pumping sets.
Surfed-out, thinning crowds.
80° weekends in January.
The thrill of enormous storm surf.
Less traffic, more parking.
Glorious, desperate rain.
Maybe, possibly, perhaps …
the run-off bacteria strengthens our immune system?