The purpose of this endeavor is to share the joy and exhilaration we experience while swimming in the Ocean. We swim out, searching for waves to glide upon with our bodies. We are in contact with natural elements and energy unlike anything else on Earth. The sensory experience is otherworldly.
We are frequently asked, by surfers and nonsurfers, “Why do you bodysurf instead of surf?” First of all, we are still very much surfers. We still ride boards and have the utmost respect for all wave riders regardless of vehicle. We’ve chosen to simplify our methods. No board, no wax, no fin keys…just swim fins and our own drive to feel the Ocean as deeply as possible. We bodysurf because of the adventure, because of the fellowship. The next best thing to being in the barrel is seeing your buddy in one.
We spend a substantial amount of our Ocean time joyfully looking out of barrels. We swim into giant walled out beach breaks, kicking feverishly and laughing nervously. Even in a competitive crowd, we are often found slightly inside picking off clean, fun peaks. Out of the way, with the best view in the house.
We bodysurf because it is greener, cheaper, and more in tune with our body’s rhythm. During solid sessions, we swim multiple miles against strong currents and spend long periods underwater: heart pounding, lungs screaming. Epic days end with deep, muscle exhaustion, foggy eyes and huge smiles.
We delight in heavy surf. Treading the impact zone, we witness incredible forms of water and stunning acts of courage. We take sets on the head that have surfers bailing boards and tangling with chaos. We toss ourselves into the height of a wave’s raw energy, get absolutely pounded, and swim back out for more.
It is with this joy and exhilaration that we share our perspectives and stories from the Ocean…Swell Lines: Bodysurfing yarns woven ‘tween crest and trough.
A monthly webzine dedicated to bodysurfing and our passion for the Ocean.
Eric Joyce and Kyle Stock